Jakarta (evictions)

The Old Lady by Black-Holic

Susan Abeyasekere in Jakarta: A History states, “the central fallacy [of Jakarta] which has persisted from 1619 to the present is that it is possible to create a city for the privileged few, cut off from the countryside and the majority of the poor”.

Here is an old story about Jakarta.  It is a fresh as the new day…

NGO urges a humane eviction of 24,000 squatters in North Jakarta
The Jakarta Post, Jakarta 9/20/2008

“If the city administration has its way, 24,000 families in North Jakarta will lose their homes in the near future, People Demand Housing Rights (Mantap) said Thursday.

“Numerous families will be evicted this year to make way for green areas,” said Deny from Mantap, which is counseling residents of the 22 affected communities stretching from Ancol to Kelapa Gading.

The administration has planned to clear squats under it’s greening and flood control programs. The areas to be cleared are the BMW park, Pluit Dam and the area along Jl. Artha Gading.

On Aug. 24, municipal public order officers evicted 1,400 families squatting in BMW Park, a site originally designated as a green area during the city’s “Clean (Bersih), Humane (Manusiawi), Esteemed (Wibawa)” program.

The BMW park eviction turned into a melee with scores of public order officials and squatters being injured. Ten people were arrested.

The city now plans to build an international soccer stadium there. A competition for the best stadium design was launched on Aug. 26.

Some 200 of those families still refuse to leave. They have built up makeshift shelters in the park and along the nearby railway tracks to replace the homes the administration tore down.

“We are going to stay here until the mayor listens to our demands,” the evicted squatters said at a meeting Thursday.

The residents are demanding more time to seek a compromise with the municipal administration or find another location to live and work in. They have taken their demands to the National Committee on Human Rights, the House of Representatives and the North Jakarta municipality office.

Meanwhile, Mantap demands a more humane approach.

“They know that they’re squatters, but the eviction process should be more humane,” Deny said.

A North Jakarta official said Pluit Dam, the most populated area with 9,000 families, would be cleared to make way for green areas designed to absorb rainfall and prevent the chronic flooding characteristic of that area of North Jakarta.

The 1,000 families currently living in the area around Jl. Artha Gading will also be evicted by the construction of a flood-control dam.

Data from Mantap shows that the areas earmarked for eviction also include Tanah Merah Plumpang, Tanah Kampung Sawah, the area behind the Islamic Center, Kampung Banda, Kampung Sepat, the TPI Marunda area, Bongkaran, Kebon Pisang, disputed BPPN disputed, West Semper, Kampung Grandong, the Penjaringan area, upper and lower Da’o, and alongside the railway tracks in West Pademangan totaling around 230 hectares.” (fmb)

Jakarta (urban language, cultural gado-gado)

Detail from Borobudur

Indonesian is part of that great language family group known as Austronesian  which is the most widely spread language group on the planet. Stretching as far west as Madagascar and a far east at Easter Island, or Rapa Nui as it is known by it original Polynesian settlers.

The Hawaiian language, for example still shares words with modern Indonesian: Hawaiian, ahi = Indonesian, api (fire, though I was told that in Seram the tool used to make the fire is called ‘ahi’), Hawaiian, maka = Indonesian, mata (eye), Hawaiian, maki = Indonesian, mati (dead). The name ‘Hawai`i may be a cognate of ‘Java’, the name of Indonesia’s most populous island; you can see it in the ‘awa’ and the ‘ava’. On Seram there is the village of Wahai, perhaps yet another cognate. Also on Seram the prefix ‘wai’ is used to mean river and in Hawai`i it means ‘water’.

Back in the deep time when people pushed their sailing canoes off the beaches somewhere in the Indonesian archipelago they carried with them the roots of the Austronesian family group. They also carried the real roots of taro, banana, kukui, sugar cane, ti, and the other Polynesian “canoe” plants which are known to have their biological and evolutionary origins in Indonesia.

Thus the world is linked and it is always bigger and more connected than we might assume as first glance. The word moa has a long reach; it means ‘bird’ or ‘chicken’ and is still in use today in Madagascar, Aeotearoa, and Hawai`i.

The other lesson here is that language is, in and of itself, not static. Language is pliable and transforms over time. I like to think of it as a mental plastic; resilient, and absorbing. Perhaps there is no language which gives such a good example as this as Indonesian.

Modern Indonesian is rooted to Old Malay originating in southern Sumatra and spreading during the 7th through the 9th century under the Hindu Sriwijaya kingdom. Modern Malay came in to its own in the 13th and 14th centuries as a lingua franca (or trading language) when it was spread through the archipelago coincident with the spread of Islam.

That is how I think of Bahasa Indonesia; a commercial trading language at the core, having incorporated words from Sanskrit, Chinese, Arabic, and later Portuguese, Dutch, and English, with good portions of Javanese, Sundanese, Maduraese, Minankabauese and other far flung indigenous languages thrown in the mix for good measure.

Traveling the far reaches of the archipelago I always get the humbling impression that people speak two, three, or even four different languages. Modern Indonesian really is “unity in diversity“.

Jakarta, of course, is particularly interesting because it has always been, since the days of Batavia, a place where all these influences rubbed up against each other and mixed together, both metaphorically and physically.

The Betawi of Jakarta is a cultural result.

The Dutch actually got around to building a city in the eighteenth century when the walls surrounding Fort Batavia were finally pulled down and hauled up to Gambir. From this time onward, and especially in the early nineteenth century, Indonesian ethnic groups increasingly found their place in the life of Batavia, however marginal that may have been.

The Dutch,  for administrative purposes and security reasons divided Batavia into small ethnic enclaves, or kampungs. But, as Abeyasekere states, “By the 1820s… …intermixing had gone so far that observers could no longer divide the Indonesian community into distinct ethnic groups. In the nineteenth century Indonesians born in Batavia generally came be called Orang Betawi, a recognition that the Indonesians of the city formed a distinct ethnic group”.

The cultural force which held the Orang Betawi together was their common faith of Islam; in fact they had a reputation of being fanatically Islamic. In the Dutch colonial world of Batavia which set the economic and social rules of the day this was at least something the Betawi had under their control and could claim as their own. They sent their children to Muslim schools. They avoided employment which would bring them into contact with Europeans.

They spoke their own language, a distinct dialect of Malay. From this, other distinct cultural practices evolved; wedding ceremonies, architecture, dress, music, dance, oral traditions, ondel-ondel, and Silat.

By the 1930s the growth of Batavia was so rapid that the Betawi were viewed as an ethnic minority in the very city which created them. Their culture persists in Jakarta today in their language, art, theatre and they came still be found, on a Saturday morning, practicing Silat.

Silat, Kampung Betawi, Jakarta, 2008

The urban scene has always been a hothouse of cultural evolution. In the case of Jakarta the crowding together of large numbers of people from widely diverse areas throughout the archipelago results in a blend of  varied ethnic traditions mixing under the influence of the social stress of urban living and enhanced by the pressure of external cultural influences.

Abeyasekere notes how quickly new immigrants to the city become Jakartans.

It’s a cultural gado-gado.

“…language is the colour of our skin, in a way- it will never wash off. It isn’t necessarily about the language, it’s about the message, the perseverence of culture implied somewhere in the context.”

-Marisa Duma

PROKEM: An Analysis of A Jakarta Slang. Thomas H. Slone. Masalai Press, Oakland, California, 2003. 95 pages.

What is a “ludling” you might ask?

The literal meaning of the term is “play-language”. Linguists use the term to describe languages created from ordinary languages “as the result of a transformation or series of transformations acting regularly on an ordinary language text, with the intent of altering form but not the content of the original message, for the purposes of concealment or comic effect”. Slone states in his Introduction to PROKEM that, “As such, ludlings exist as a subset of play languages, namely those that are formed by regular transformation of a standard, base language. Ludlings as well as most other slang languages retain the grammar of the base language”.

Oing-gay o-tay karta-jay o-tay uy-bay ome-say ice-ray.

What is this?

In the US, and perhaps in England, every school age child comes across this sooner or later. This is a ludling known as “Pig Latin” where the words are formed by taking a standard English word, transposing the initial part of the word to the end, and adding “ay”.

So the above is: Going to Jakarta to buy some rice.

Or something like that. I am a bit rusty on my Pig Latin as I probably have not spoken it since the fifth grade.

Slone defines Prokem as “a slang language that is spoken in Jakarta, primarily by youth who speak the Jakartan dialect of Indonesian. It most likely originated as a secret criminal language, but is today spoken by both high school and university students and by members of street gangs, preman, from which the name Prokem comes”.

Jakartan is a dialect of Indonesian and Prokem is a slang Jakartan.

Slang has its roots in puns, jokes, crime, sex, violence, politics, arcronyms, generational changes, fashion, “the scene”. It is the same for the beatniks, hippys, or surfers. To speak slang is an entrance ticket to a  community which is often opposed to and out of the norm.

As Abayesekere notes:

“Some of the more well-to-do clearly felt that Western influence had most to teach about shaping a modern urban society. They watched Western films frequently and tried to keep in touch with trends abroad. This troubled many nationalists, who feared that Jakartans were absorbing all the worst aspects of Western culture. In 1952, Vice-President Hatta noted that Indonesia’s large cities were much influenced by Westerners: “In these places, most of our people just become imitators. As usual, the easiest thing to imitate is the shallow, the superficial…” He pus this down to the fact that, “most of our cities did not arise from our own society but rather as appendages of a foreign economy. These cities are not the centers of the creative activity of our own people but primarily distribution centers of foreign goods”.

In the Jakarta of the 1950s, Hatta’s remarks seemed to be supported by the appearance of the so-called ‘cross-boys’. These were gangs of youths who modeled themselves on the juvenile delinquents portrayed in Western films and who were usually associated with jeans and motor bikes. Some view them suspiciously as a sign of imported social decadence, but they also had much in common with the pemuda of the Revolution days. When martial law was introduced in 1957, the military authorities in Jakarta banned ‘cross-boy organization’, of which there seemed to be a large number: thirty-six were listed by name, including Cross-Boys Club, Deddy [sic] Boys Club, and James Dean Club. And for good measure, the wearing of jeans in public by anyone over the age of ten was forbidden. This was no hollow threat: arrests were subsequently made at cinemas.”

Slang emerges to meet the social surroundings.

Here are some examples as given by Slone.

“What does MBA [ Master of Business Administration ] mean?” (pun, riddle)  Prokem = “Master bAccident and “Masih belum apa-apa.” (“Still nothing”).

APIK (acronym) : Indonesian = Akademi Pendidikan Il mu Keguruan [ "Training Academy of Science Teachers" ]   Prokem = agak pikun ["rather senile"]

ANGGUN (acronymic redefinition of regular word meaning “well dressed”) in Prokem = angota ragunan, [ "ugly person, literally "member of the Ragunan Zoo" ].

SIMPATIK (another acronymic redefinition whose standard meaning is “congenial” or “sympathetic) in Prokem = simpanse pakai batik [ "chimpanzee dressed in batik" ].

 CHICAGO Indonesian = Cikini, Kali Pasir, Gondangdia Lama; Prokem = Chicago, Illinois; three street names in Jakarta that form a triangular area and may have been a gang territory.

OPEC Indonesian = Organisasi Pedagang Ekonomi Cukupan; Prokem = Organization of Petroleum Exporting Countries (Organization of Economic Tranders [providing] Just Enough).

These are just a small sample of Prokem which Slone cites in his book. There may be well over 4,000 words in the Prokem vocabulary; some words dropping away and new ones added. The book itself is a slim volume but rich in the technical understanding of where Prokem comes from, how it functions, and where it is going. It’s detail is thorough, educational, and entertaining. It shows the reach of Bahasa Indonesia; “the perseverence of culture implied somewhere in the context”.

Other Sites of Interest:

Indonesian Language Resources

Kelas Bahasa: Huh? This is Indonesian?

IndonesiaLogue: Betawi

TeakDoor: Leanring Indonesian Urban Slang (some good examples here).

trims

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Jakarta (the wheels of justice go around)

Denpasar, Bali   photo: Quiseng

Fatahillah Square, Jakarta Historical Society, Jakarta Kota, 2008

Old Batavia, like most of the world in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, was a place of frequent and harsh punishment. In the cobbled square before the Town Hall it was commonplace to see people in the stocks. On one day in 1676 a visiting European witnessed four people beheaded, six broken on the wheel, one hanged, and eight whipped and branded.”

-Abeyasekere, Jakarta: A History

I was informed, by a docent working at the Town Hall, that 20,000 executions took place in the square during the period from the Dutch times up to the end of the World War II.  This is not to mention the dungeons, still extant, in the basement, and the water torture cells still present to view in front of the Town Hall. I was emphatically informed that the Dutch placed “scorpions in there” to enhance the punishment. 

The Dutch were real mean bastards for sure. Thankfully we live in more sanitary times.

And YOU have been warned.

From: The Age

Indonesia to speed up drug executions
Karen Michelmore, Jakarta
June 27, 2008
INDONESIA says it will speed up the execution process of drug traffickers, in a major blow for three Australians on death row for heroin smuggling.

As authorities prepared for the executions last night of two Nigerian heroin smugglers, Attorney-General Hendarman Supandji said other drug offenders on death row could expect their cases to be expedited.

The head of Indonesia’s anti-drugs group also said executions must take place more quickly to deter traffickers.

“To give them a lesson, drug traffickers must be executed immediately,” Police chief and National Anti-Narcotic Body chairman General Sutanto said. …>go to article

 And two Nigerians, from a country far, far away from Indonesia  were executed to mark “anti-drug day” in Indonesia.  There are 58 remaining Nigerians facing the death penalty in Indonesia. This is a rather sober prospect to say the least.

From: Rueters

Two Nigerians executed in Indonesia for drugs
Fri 27 Jun 2008, 12:21 GMT

[-] Text [+] CILACAP, Indonesia (Reuters) – Two Nigerians convicted of drug smuggling have been executed by firing squad in Indonesia, officials said on Friday.

“Samuel Iwachekawu Okoye and Hansen Anthony Nwaoysa were executed before midnight on Thursday on Nusakambangan prison island, which is off the coast of central Java…

…Indonesia has defended the death penalty as a necessary deterrent in a country with a growing drugs problem. The last foreigners to be executed for drugs offences were two Thai nationals in October 2004…

…Dicky Atotoy, head of the Central Java mobile brigade police, said the two Nigerians had been tied to two wooden poles with their heads covered, and shot by two teams of police snipers.

“The doctor declared the two convicts dead at 00:00 following the firing squads’ duty to execute them,” Atotoy said…”

(Additional reporting by Telly Nathalia and Camillus Eboh in Abuja; Writing by Olivia Rondonuwu; Editing by Sara Webb and Valerie Lee) …> go to article

 Next up to the post:

Three Australians convicted of drug trafficking arrested on the island of Bali in 2005 with 8.2 kg (18 lb) of heroin.

Indonesian authorities are also preparing the executions of three Bali bombers for their role in deadly attacks in 2002 that killed 202 people. 

Of course the United States is not immune to criticism.

In the State of Texas under the administration of George W. Bush 155 executions were conducted. More than any other elected official in recorded American history.

Down stream from executions the Schapelle Corby case in particular gets a lot of press. HBO will air a documentary on the case on American cable TV  soon titled “The Ganja Queen“.  Corby is serving a twenty year jail sentence for smuggling 4.1 kg of ganja into Bali.

She recently has not been feeling well and is being treated in hospital for “depression” where she has a “private room with TV and air conditioning”.

Well, this is messed up for sure. 

In Dutch times she probably would have been put on trial for being a witch, hung, drawn and quartered, and then the pieces shot out of a large cannon.

Someone should roll up a big spliff and sneak it in to her room. She might feel better after a few tokes.

I suppose this is a mean joke but if she were say, Tommy Soeharto, a thing like this would not be far off the mark.

Even further down stream there is this.

Remember the case of “modern day slavery” ?  I wrote about that here on December 17, 2007.

Just to remind you…

The AP, December 17, 2007, writes:

Long Island millionaires guilty in ‘modern-day slavery’ case

Frank Eltman, AP

CENTRAL ISLIP, N.Y. – The woman had been tortured for more than five years when she wandered into a Dunkin’ Donuts on Mother’s Day morning, wearing rags on her back and with wounds oozing from her ears. Scars of various sizes covered her body.

She had run away from the nearby home of Varsha Sabhnani and her husband Mahender Sabhnani _ millionaire perfume moguls whose extravagant life in their Long Island mansion was worlds apart from the humble existence the woman led back in Indonesia.

The mansion was also the place where the Indonesian woman, named Samirah, said she and a fellow maid were subjected to horrific abuse at the hands of the Sabhnanis. When authorities arrived at the home, they found the second maid cowering in a small closet under the basement stairs; the women were taken to the hospital to treat all the abuse they endured”.

The AP reports

2nd NY millionaire gets prison in slavery case
1 day ago

CENTRAL ISLIP, N.Y. (AP) – A millionaire convicted along with his wife of virtually enslaving two Indonesian housekeepers has been sentenced to more than three years in prison.

Mahender Sabhnani (sahb-NAH’-nee) was convicted in December of counts including forced labor and involuntarily servitude. He was sentenced Friday to three years and four months in prison.

The workers testified that they were beaten with brooms and umbrellas, slashed with knives, and forced to take cold showers.

On Thursday, Varsha Sabhnani received an 11-year sentence. Prosecutors said she was the one who abused the women”.

A small thing indeed.

Now, can anyone tell me what has happened with Todung Mulya Lubis?

Todung Mulya Lubis, Indonesia’s most prominent human-rights voice, Friday  (May 17, 2008 ) was disbarred from practicing law by the Jakarta Regional Honor Board after another prominent lawyer, Hotman Paris Hutapea, filed a complaint against him for an ethics violation.

In a telephone interview with Asia Sentinel, Mulya Lubis called the decision “totally baseless and unlawful” and said he has little hope of winning an appeal.

“For me this is a conspiracy of corrupt lawyers who feel troubled and disturbed by my stand to play by the rules and consistently fight against corruption,” he said. “The accuser, Hotman Paris Hutapea, is known as the most corrupt lawyer in Indonesia, while I am regarded as symbol of an incorruptible lawyer. The judgment is outrageous and has killed my life, violated my right to practice law, and defied common sense and justice. I will appeal, but I am losing hope in the integrity of the Bar Association. The legal profession is rotten.”

A large thing indeed.

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Jakarta (Batavia, Djakarta, Jakarta, population and the Chinese)

 

House detail, Pasar Baru, Jakarta

Population

How many people live in Jakarta? (And who counts them?). That number varies depending on what you mean by ‘Jakarta’. Is it Jakarta or Daerah Khusus Ibukota or Jabodetebek? Is it the number within metropolitan Jakarta or greater metropolitan Jakarta? Is it nine million or thirteen million or twenty-three million people?

Prior to 1619, how many people lived in Jayakarta? Perhaps, maybe one or two thousand people.

When the Dutch anchored their ships in Jakarta Bay at the mouth of the Ciliwung River how many scruffy lice bitten Dutchmen were there? Not many.

Here are some interesting notes gleaned from Abeyasekere’s Jakarta: A History, with some additions.

Batavia – Jakarta 1673 to 2004

Year       Population

1673     27,000 (including 13,278 or 49% slaves and 2,024 or 7%
                          Netherlanders, 2,747 or 10% Chinese)

1730     20,000 (walled town) 15,000 (suburbs)

1779     12,131 (old town) 160,986 (scattered to the mountains)

1815     49,000
1850     70,000
1900     116,000
1930     435,000

1945     844,000 (20,000 or 2.3% of this population were ‘beggars’)

1948     1,050,000 (in 1948, the first 1 million people)

1952     1,782,000 (in 1953, 75% of Jakartans were born outside of
                               Jakarta)
1965     3,813,000
1976     5,700,000
1980     6,500,000
1989     9,000,000

2004     13,000,000 (2004 population exceeds that of 1900 by 112 times)

 

 

2008? 19 to 23 million people in greater Jakarta. Does anyone know? And is it possible to count everyone? Making Jakarta the seventh, eighth, or ninth, largest city on the planet. There are new arrivals daily.

It took 329 years, from 1619, when Dutch slaves built Fort Batavia, to 1948, before the city’s population reached one million

In the period from 1900 to 2004, the city’s population grew by 112 times to reach a population of thirteen million and more. This is one-third the time it took the city to reach its first one million residents. This is also where Batavia, essentially a Dutch colonial city, disappears to become Jakarta, the ‘mother city’ of Indonesia.

During the 1950s things really started to roar.

The rapid rise in population was such that, as Abeyasekere writes,

“The majority of new immigrants shared existing housing… …The state of affairs is described by the poet Ayip Rosidi, who arrived in Jakarta as a boy in 1951. Coming from Jatiwangi in West Java, he was appalled at the place where his uncle took him to live in. It was an alley in Galur sub-district, east of the Senen Market. The area was only a few years old, very muddy and full of huts with grass-thatched roof. Rosidi lived for several years in one of these huts backing onto a river lined with privies.

Houses were built in an unbroken row; his row measured 33 feet by 23 feet, and contained 57 inhabitants. The boy shared a bed with two other men in a small room inhabited by five people.

He later wrote: ‘It was entirely beyond anything I had imagined before actually coming to Djarkarta, and I felt nauseated. I had never, never thought I could live in such squalor. Yet little by little… I grew familiar with Djakarta housing, knowing that it was sometimes possible to live in a row of shacks, as we did, only after some stroke of good luck’ “.

That is 57 people in an area measuring 33 feet by 23 feet or 759 square feet. Shared among 57 people this would allow each person a space of 3.5 feet by 4.5 feet. If you calculate the space needed for cooking, sleeping, or other household items this space is further reduced.

Later, Abeyasekere quotes Rosidi in his attempt to come to terms with urban life,

“…I felt that I’d been placed in a sickening cage, that I’d lost my roots, that I stood right in the middle of an international city’s whirling confusion, a city that opened itself to every current and never flinched away, a bustling activity without direction or purpose, a city of lies and tricks“.

In 1951, there were only 47 trucks and 600 handcarts available to collect rubbish. Of the trucks which were available about one in six was out of action and in need of repair.

For the entire city there were only 60 men and 4 trucks employed to empty privies. In 1954, in a city of nearly two million people, there were only 84 public restrooms, none of which had water.

If you wanted to ring up City Hall to complain there were only 8,204 telephone connections. The joke was that it was quicker to walk across town to deliver a message than use the telephone (if you could find one).

The Chinese

Chinese presence in Java dates from as early as the ninth century. Trade in spices and Chinese luxury goods was long established before the arrival of Europeans.

Before the Portuguese and the Dutch started mucking things up the Chinese were present in the town of Jayakarta where they grew sugar cane and distilled arak. The de Haan map of Jayakarta shows ‘Chinese Houses’ along the left bank of the Ciliwung River between the ‘defense line’ north of Kyai Aria’s District and Fort Batavia. Neither in or out of one camp or another but always potentially in the line of fire of either.

Abeyasekere quotes Coen as saying that “…there is no people who serve is better that the Chinese, and so easy to get as the Chinese“. She writes, “So keen was he [Coen] to build up their numbers quickly in Batavia that in 1622 he sent ships to kidnap people on the coast” … and “The Europeans were heavily dependent on Chinese labor and on merchandise from East Asia brought in by Chinese junks. In 1625, the Chinese fleet trading in Batavia had a total tonnage at least as large as that of the whole VOC return fleet” … and concluding that “so dominant was the role of the Chinese, in fact, that a recent historian has argued that from 1619 to 1740 Batavia was, economically speaking ‘basically a Chinese colonial town under Dutch protection’.

Abeyasekere: “The rapid influx of Chinese contributed to the opening up of the country around Batavia, and it was this development which caused anxiety to the Company, since outside the walls it was much harder to keep the Chinese under surveillance”.

It was these Chinese, as Abeyasekere points out, which developed Batavia’s sugar estates and its only original export of raw sugar and arak.

“From 2,747 Chinese within the town in 1674 the registers show a jump to 4,389 in 1739; in the environs (a nebulous term denoting the hinterland as far south as the mountains) 7,550 Chinese were counted in 1719 and 10,574 in 1739 (likely to be an understatement)”.

To control this rapid rise of immigration the Dutch concocted escalating regulations. They tried to place a quota on how many Chinese could be brought in by junk. This was evaded by the Chinese simply through landing people along the coast away from Batavia. Finally, in response to a glut of sugar on the global market which threw many Chinese coolies out of work the Dutch proposed to move them to their company outposts in Ceylon, “which rumour had it amongst the distressed Chinese, was just a ruse for dumping them at sea”.

The year 1740 marks a bloody turning point in the Dutch and Chinese relationship. The economic down turn in the sugar markets eventually led to a peasant revolt on the outskirts of Batavia. Abeyasekere writes, “Carrying home-made weapons and flying banners inscribed ‘To assist the poor, the destitute, and the oppressed’ and ‘Follow the righteous of old times’, the Chinese coolies marched on the city, where hundreds of their compatriots lived behind the walls. Although the latter had little or no contact with the Chinese outside, rumors spread that they were planning to assist the rebels. When the ill-armed Chinese force attacked the town on 8 October, the fact that they were easily repulsed did not save the Chinese inside”.

And so it began. Europeans and Indonesians “attacked, burned, and plundered” six to seven thousand Chinese homes and massacred perhaps as many as one thousand Chinese while the government stood by and did nothing. Five hundred Chinese were arrested and held at the Town Hall only to eventually be led out and executed one by one. “For a week the town blazed with fire and the canals ran red with blood.” While order was eventually restored the peasant rebellion would continue to 1743.

The events would set the pattern for later incidents in Jakarta’s history such as the anti-Chinese protests of the 1960s, the Soeharto purge of the Communist Party in 1965, and the ethnic riots in 1997. Still, the root of anti-Chinese violence lies with the Dutch who created and enforced the highly stratified society of colonial Batavia which is something the Indonesia elites of Jakarta have taken advantage of, have promoted, and have yet to address and resolve.

Abeyasekere concludes that, “Jealousy of Chinese commercial success simmered among many other citizens, who took advantage of a break down in law and order to attack the Chinese and loot their property. Little protection of the Chinese has been offered by Jakarta’s governments, who have often seemed prepared to allow the Chinese to be treated as scapegoats for the inadequacy of their own administration”.

Indeed.

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Jakarta (Batavia)

Batavia, 1929

This remarkable photo (the scene may be along the canal in the Pasar Baru area) is posted (along with some other old scenes from Batavia, Bandung, Malang, and Semarang at morning coffee ~o)

Click on the photo to view at its full size.  It’s laundry day in Batavia. A time to meet friends, share some gossip, exchange the news in the community of women.  There is much going on in this photo. Take some time with it. 

In the next series of posts Jakarta Urban Blog will visit Batavia.  To know where you are it is useful to see where you have been and to see where you have been is often useful in understanding where you are going.

In my library of Indonesian books Susan Abeyasekere’s Jakarta: A History is a much loved volume. This is the book which has inspired my own effort here. My copy of this book was published by Oxford University Press and shows a copyright date of 1987. Susan Abeyasekere at this time was lecturer in Southeast Asian History and Politics at Footscray Institute of Technology, Melbourne.  According to my search in Google Scholar this work is cited in 54 books and journal articles.  Her work prominantly figures in my Urban Studies Reading List. “A” IS for Abeyasekere.

Susan Abeyasekere clearly knew and loved Jakarta (in all its faults).  A close reading of her book reveals her interests in colonialism, social justice, human rights, gender equality, and the meaning of historical processes. These themes which she developes in Jakarta: A History are as valid today as in her own time.

I have not been successful in finding information about Susan Abeyasekere’s biography. She apparently was active in researching and writing about Indonesia through the 1980’s.  I do not know if she is still living, still teaching, or retired.  If there is anyone who is familiar with her career and work a comment here would be greatly appreciated.

In November 1980 she published an article in the New Internationalist (issue 093) titled “In Search of the Good life” where she wrote,

“Neglect of the countryside in favour of foreign investment in extractive industries and Jakarta-based manufacturing and construction has proved disastrous on the island of Java with its rural-based population of 90 million. Since there is not enough land to support them, millions of poor, unskilled people have flooded into the big cities.

Yet Jakarta’s affluent persist in believing that the capital is their city, to be developed in ways which will serve only their needs. This is justified on the grounds that the poor cannot afford to pay for facilities, even basic ones like pure drinking water. Less than 15 per cent of the city’s houses have mains water, and people in those houses pay several times less than those who buy it from street-sellers (necessary in many areas where well water is polluted).

Forty per cent of the city’s daily rubbish is not collected for disposal. There is no sewage system. Only 20 per cent of the city’s budget is spent to improve the areas where 60 per cent of the population is living. Thewealthy have monopolised the scarce supplies of water, electricity (available to only 21 per cent of the city’s houses), medical care, education and well-drained land. There is regular flooding of areas occupied by the poor. While the swelling population suffers from escalating land costs, speculators benefit from absurdly low rates of municipal property taxation”.

 Remember, she is writing this in 1980, some twenty-eight years ago.  Has much changed?

 Batavia (from Jakarta: A History)

“Javanese were not permitted to live in the city. Batavia was not intended to be the colonial capital of a large territory; it was run by a trading company which envisaged the town as a port where its ships could be serviced, as a collection point for goods and as an administrative headquarters for company activities in the region. Coen’s [the notorious VOC governor] vision rapidly materialized: in the seventeenth century Batavia became the centre of a great web of Dutch commerce in Asia, with trading posts stretching from Capetown and Persia through India, Ceylon, Burma, Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos and Malacca through Formosa and Deshima in Japan. And most of these places contributed to the building up the population of Batavia, which was not a Javanese but a Company town”.

Perhaps most remarkable was that very few Europeans were actually engaged in the trade and commerce of Batavia and what Europeans were there Coen called “the scum of the earth”.  The number of Eurpean women could be counted on one hand.

Coen wrote his VOC directors that, “Everyone knows that the male sex cannot exist without women. Yet it seems that your Excellencies wish to have a colony planted without them. To make good that lack, we have sought finance here and have many women purchased. But just as up to now you gentlemen have sent me only the dregs of the earth, so it seems there here also only dregs are bought for us, for several good fellows have been poisoned by the women, for which some have been severely punished. Shall we, on account of these rejects, give up seeking good citizens, as it seems you people have done? Do we have to die out entirely? On this matter we request that, if Your Excellencies cannot get any honest married people, do not neglect to send under-age young girls: thus we hope to do better with them than with older women”.

Still the number of European women remained “infinitesimal.” Abeyasekere states the even as late as 1900 there were only 1,363 European women in Batavia while the men “consisted of fortune hunters, careerists, and pavenues. Everyone was obsessed with rank and completely uninterested in ideas”.

Abeyasekere writes that, “Batavia continues as it had begun, a town of people brought in from all over Asia at the convenience of the Company. Good and loyal fighters were recruited from as far afield as Japan and the Philippines for the town’s garrison; Chinese were encouraged to settle as shopkeepers and as a link to the lucrative China trade, and labour was provided by slaves from anywhere but Java, whose inhabitants were too suspect. It was a society assembled by the Company exclusively for its own interests“.

By the late 1790s “the VOC [Dutch East Indies Company] slipped more deeply into that bankruptcy, nepotism, inefficientcy, corruption, maladministration and military decline of which Batavia was cause, symptom, and symbol”.

Here are the roots of the city which would become Jakarta.  In future posts Jakarta Urban Blog will examine the role of the Chinese in Batavia and the expanding population.

 

Jakarta (berita baru, “the mad doctor”, and wisdom)

 

 

 

Citayam

berita baru

Jakarta Urban Blog would like to note (since the last post) the passing of Ali Sadikin on May 20, 2008.  Ali Sadikin was governor of Jakarta from 1966 through 1977.  Since his death most comments I have seen seem to be favorable about his tenure as governor. 

From Jakarta Post, May 25, 2008, Ali Sadikin an inspiration for Indonesia’s younger generation, Abdul Khalik/Tifa Asrianti

“Former Jakarta governor Ali Sadikin, who died Tuesday, is remembered by Indonesia’s youth as a consistent and brave champion of the poor”.

Sadikin is known for much in the history of Jakarta and for his  “vibrant, colorful, immediate and compelling charm” as Abeyasekere writes. Sadikin was a dashing kick-ass Indonesian Marine and his vision of Jakarta was as a METROPOLITAN CITY (as Abeyasekere says this was always in captial letters and we might as well make them bold in addition). He and his staff wrote the Jakarta Master Plan (1965-1985) which was passed as a law in 1967 to adress the city’s problems in a systematic way and to plan future land use. 

Systematic he was and he is known for land clearances, street clearnces of street vendors and prostitutes, the arrest and jailing of beggars, the notorius seizure and destruction of the becak, and to even declaring Jakarta “a closed city” to further migration.  Ultimately, as Abeyasekere notes, Sadikin had to resign himself to the fact of a very large and growing population of urban poor.  On the one hand there was supression of undesirable elements like the beggars and prostitutes and on the other a concerted effort to improve the condition of the kampungs. Sadikin achieved success in part as the Jakarta economy, at least to 1974, was booming under the New Order and their motto of ‘Development’. Dangdut music was the new wave and Golkar lost the 1974 elections in Jakarta. His later participation in the ‘Petition 50′ in 1980 is also noted.

In the end Sadikin’s efforts were such that Jakarta was made even more attractive than before to those in the search for the “good life”.  As usual it’s a hard luck story.

Of all Jakarta’s governors since long gone Batavia  he was the best.  There is a certain political courage seen in Sadikin’s later life and lasting until the end.

Two new books have recently crossed my desk and are worth looking at.

CONFRONTATION: THE WAR WITH INDONESIA 1962 – 1966 by Nick van der Bijl, Pen and Sword, 2008.
This is a kind of “only mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the mid-day sun” war book.
As described, “At any one time up to 50,000 troops (half of the Army’s strength today) were deployed along a 1,000 mile front. Their enemy were the communist led Indonesians whose leaders were determined to seize the states of Sarawak, Sabah and the oil rich Brunei, all of whom for their part wished to maintain their Commonwealth links. The catalyst for the war was the 1962 uprising in Brunei which was quickly crushed by the bold intervention of British army units”. 
Most of the book is about how the British knocked the crap out of Indonesian “confrontasi” through the skilled command of British led forces. There is a lot of operational detail in the book. The political background to these events is well outlined.   The British called Soekarno “the mad doctor”.  The book is full of revelations about the heavy involvement of the CIA in the politics of the time, supporting insurgencies through Indonesia and then betraying them to regular Indonesian forces.  The book also outlines the roles of the PKI and the development of the Indonesian TNI and their relationships to events in North Borneo.
There is one item the book includes as Appendix I,  Fundamentals of Guerrilla War, summarizing the theories of Colonel Nasution. Nasution, of course, led Indonesian forces in 1948, was twice appointed Army Chief of Staff, and otherwise had quite an eventful career.  Nasution’s first fundamental is “War in this century has become a total people’s war”.   Some of these theories were thrown together as Nastion contemplated the prospect of having to take the war to the Dutch with bases in the villages of the mountains of Java.  In light of  students on the streets of Jakarta being arrested for protesting fuel price increases Nasution is worth reading, at least for those who realize the people’s war must now be an urban one.
 
The editorial review calls it as  ”a flame-throwing epidemiologist talks about sex, drugs, and the mistakes (dismal), ideologies (vicious), and hopes (realistic) of international AIDS prevention”.
This book is about how we need a new paradigm.  Her web site The Wisdom of Whores is also worth looking at.

Jakarta (deviantArt, airports, MONAS)

 

 

 

 

 

    

 

MONAS

deviantArt

Before I started to publish Jakarta Urban Blog I came across the deviantART web site while searching for images of Indonesia and Jakarta.  There I found a community of young, creative Indonesian and Jakartan artists, writers, and photographers which has really impressed me. I have used some of their photo images on this site with thier permission and with not ever having been turned down.  Thank you.  Some of my favorite artists and photographers can been see here and I recommend a visit …> go to site 

Or you can go the the deviantArt web site and type in “Indonesia” or “Jakarta” and see for yourself what turns up. You will be surprised and pleased at the talent displayed there.

As I have been sorting through the photographs which I took on my recent visit to Jakarta I have been posting a few on my deviantArt page which I like and might be of interest to my readers. These photographs can be seen here …> go to site

I will be adding more as time allows.

Airports

The flight from Hawaii to Jakarta is long. I have done this three times from Honolulu to Changi, Singapore to Jakarta.  I have come to love to the Changi airport. It is the best designed and most comfortable airport I have seen. I generally love airports anyway. Maybe this is not too politically correct these days but I do have a few weaknesses when it comes to travel.  On two other occasions I have flown Japan Airlines from Honolulu to Narita to Jakarta.  The service has been very good and the flights comfortable. 

I once flew from Honolulu to Sydney to Denpasar on Quantas. Something I will never do again as the flight time nearly drove me insane and (so sorry) the rudeness of the Austrailians upon landing at Denpasar was a little over the top. But they were, after all, there to party or whatever. The flight back to Sydney was even more rude as most of the cabin was drunk to put it bluntly.

  

Incehon, Korea

This last time I flew Korean Air from Honolulu to Inchon to Jakarta. Nice new planes, good food, but the layovers not too long and not too pleasant. The airport at Inchon is some space age steel and glass design that looks like it came out of a Star Wars set. The interior replicates a mall. It is located out in the middle of nowhere on extremely flat ground. By the time I got to Jakarta I was pretty well burned out with the layover time and the jet lag but I do like to antcipate the arrival at Soekarno-Hatta, the smell of kreteks as you walk out of the plane down the ramp and toward customs. 

As I was taking my time enjoying all this a sudden rush of Koreans went by me on the run. Yes, literally running- running fast. What that was about I was soon to find out. I had forgotten about the Visa on Demand line you have to go through before you get to immigration and your baggage and customs.  So, there I was at the end of a line of about one hundred Koreans which had gone running by me like it was some kind of Olympic trial.  But, this IS Indonesia and I had arrived safe and sound so I just waited my turn and hoped my family would not leave before I walked out of customs and on to the street looking for them.

Fortunately they waited. This too is always a good time. I love the action at Soekarno-Hatta. Love to see my family after months and months of not seeing them.  Love to get in the car and the drive over the tol road and out to the house in Citayam.

Then hot tea, cigarettes, and talking, talking, talking until you almost pass out.  But before I passed out they wanted to know what I wanted to do, where did I want to go, what did I want to see. I could only reply, “JAKARTA, JAKARTA, JAKARTA”.  Selamat mallam.

MONAS

 I needed a day to recover and as I was re-orienting myself to the local neigborhood and seeing old friends again I decided that the place to start was the very center of Jakarta. The Monumen Nasional. The National Monument. MONAS.  Start there. Take the elevator to the top and have a look at the city. A good place to start and especially after I found out my brother-in-law, Ovet, had, after years of living in Jakarta, never been to the top of MONAS. He was, after all, a MONAS virgin. Time to fix that as well.

 ”The National Monument combines tradition and modernity in the way Sukarno liked best. Its form harks back to the lingam-yoni sculptures of Indonesia’s Hindu days; its dimensions are based on 17/8/45; and its base contains a museum of Indonesian history, depicting in dioramas scenes in Indonesia’s long evolution towards independent nationhood. Placed in the centre of Jakarta’s huge main square, it managed to dominate that expanse as no other structure ever did, and its gilded flame, visible from afar across the city’s flat, low profile, reminded Jakarta’s citizens and visitor’s of the country’s past and its aspirations for the future”.

-Susan Abeyasekere (Jakarta: A History)

Monument Nasional (MONAS): 137-metre tall Italian marble obelisk topped with a 35kg gold-coated flame. Sometimes known as “Soekarno’s erection”. He probably wouldn’t mind. I am sure he was familiar with the Hindu temple at Candi Sukuh in central Java and knew exactly what he was doing.

  

Candi Sukuh

I use the National Monument as a landmark I can tie myself to give perspective to where I am in the city. I am always looking for it when close to kota and North Jakarta. Though it no longer dominates the skyline as Jakarta’s “flat profile” has changed since Soekarno’s and Abayasekere’s time you can still catch glimpses of it between the high rises as you approach Merdeka Square.

Merdeka Square was fenced during Sadikin’s turn as governor in order keep the riff-raff, the vendors, and the prostitutes out and the (now gone) kijang in. Though there are two very large main gates visitors wishing to visit MONAS must look for a narrow opening on the east side of Merdeka Square. You park your car and then take a long walk toward the monument which works something like a people magnet once you close enough to it. Depending on which way you get lost trying to find the entrance which, of course, is on the opposite (west) side of the monument from where you parked you car, the walk to the MONAS seems mazelike but without the walls.

There is plenty of magic and distractions on the way. The magic is that the price for a bottle of water goes up the closer a thirsty bule gets to it. The distractions can be anything. For example on the day we were there several hundred three-foot tall uniformed schools kids were running around and lining up and running around. And what appeared to be half the Jakarta riot police force dressed in black uniforms were marching around in the mid-day heat. Two inflatable police boats were resting on the ground. This made me wonder if they, the police, knew something I didn’t, regarding the need for a boat at Merdeka Square. You never know.

The entrance is a curiosity in itself. The entrance is a hole in the ground because to get to the monument first you must go underground. It’s part of the mystic. Take the steps down to the long tunnel corridor and take the steps up to ground level to emerge within the aura of the MONAS. There in the distance and up a long flight of stairs, appearing in the side of the yoni, (a Sanskrit word meaning “divine passage”, “place of birth”, womb”) are the great doors of the MONAS.

But before you go up you must go down again or you will not be able to say you have seen the MONAS. Down leads to the very womb of Indonesia’s aspirations for national freedom and self-determination. Down also lead to a huge open cavern and dark cool air.

The dioramas are still there. Well executed but dimly lit they depict a very long string of fights against Dutch colonial tyranny. They are believable because anyone who has read into that history knows beyond a doubt the Dutch were tyrants. Toward the end of what seems a very long story one arrives at the events of the sixties gets the sense that history is being played with here. It seems just not quite right. Sukarno is depicted on his sick bed signing the nation over to the smiling general. Is that how it really happened? Someone should fix that and fix the burned out lights which make some of the diorama scenes nearly illegible.

The open floor is polished reflecting the ceiling lights. Feral cats have found their way down the stairs and haunt the tops of the upper walls. How were they able to get up there? How will they get down? Around one side is a giant Garuda dedicated the principles of Pancasila. There was a new and sort of run down display of Jakarta mass transit routes and a model of what Jakarta might look like in the future curiously showing water taxis picking people up along open the open quays at highrise apartment buildings. Hmm? Is there a hint of something here? Is this Jakarta, the Venice of the Java Sea?

After being well steeped in Indonesian history, you have to go up again to buy your ticket to the top. MONAS has an elevator. I understand the fee for the trip up but this is the only elevator I have experienced where you can buy insurance (optional) before you step in.

Going Up

With tickets in hand you go up again, turn a corner, and queue up. Here people are orderly, stand in line, don’t smoke, follow all the directions given to them by the guards and the cute girls in uniforms who are there to look cute and answer any and all of your questions. The line is solemn and moves slowly. In the line are military cadets with short haircuts in sharp clean uniforms with their sharp goodlooking girlfriends, middle-class Jakartan families, people with nothing better to do, and no foreign tourists (at least not today and then only me).

Finally, you get close enough to see the machine. The doors are small, the elevator is small. There is a sign posted which says “Maximum 11 People” (inluding the young man at the control of the lift). Stand behind the lines and wait for the doors to open. The elevator is empty and leaves one to speculate that there is another elevator to take people down. There are stairs going up to the left and right. Then, in you go with your other ten comrades. There is no sense that you are moving but in about two minutes or so the doors open and there you are. The observation deck of the National Monument.

There is a rush of light and wind and a feeling of relief from being free from the claustrophobic feeling of being jammed into such a small space and from the fact that that the lift didn’t get stuck. Because, you know, if it had gotten stuck it would only have been minutes before total insanity prevailed.

The views are fantatic. Well worth whatever risks that were involved (known or imagined) to get to the top. It was a fine hot day so the air pollution of the city stood out against the sea of the red roofed kampungs and the spiky highrise buildings which stretched off into the horizon in all four directions.

There is a feeling of freedom here. Not just because of the wind and open views from a high vantage but also because the only offcial looking person in the relatively small observation deck was a man smoking kreteks and selling tokens to use for the telescopes.  Being at the top was a sudden release from the formality of going up.  No more solemn history here just shere enjoyment.

Going Down

I had got what I came for. I took some very good photos of the Jakarta skyline, Gambir Station, Istiqlal Mosque, and surrounding environs.  As all good things must come to an end it was time to go down.

If going up was solemn and orderly, and being on the top gave a sense of openess and freedom, going down was a bit of anarchy.  It seemed I was living the major themes Indonesian history. I was having a good time.

As it turned out there WAS only one way up and one way down. The lift that brought us up was the lift we had to take down but there were no guards and no pretty girls in uniforms to help queue the line. When you decided you had had enough and wanted to leave you gathered in from the lift door and waited for it to open then stood briefly aside to let out the incoming passengers and worked your way through a kind of MONAS rugby scrum (at least an Indonesian version of a rugby scrum).  It was a sort of a macet orang at any rate.

There was a rush to get on. Now, for some reason, with elbows out and people grabbing their loved ones so as not to have them left behind, this all seemed like a cause for the giggles to break out. Everyone was smiling and having a good time of it. And in we went on one large swoosh with my brother-in-law grabbing me by my shirt sleeve. Once inside the giggles didn’t stop, at least not for a bit. But soon, as in all lift rides, things calmed down.  On board was a that typical middle-class Jakartan family. Husband, wife, son, daughter. Dressed respectively for a day trip the National Monument.  As things calmed down a bit the husband made a single comment-  “Ohhh, Indonesia “.  Everyone knew exactly what he meant by it. For some reason, I don’t know why, maybe the the feeling of the moment coming over me, I raised my arm high and shouted ” HIDUP! “  Meaning  ” to life! ” or ” to live “.  The reply from the everyone in the lift was ” HIDUP! “.  And more giggles. THAT felt good. Today, we were all Indonesian patriots.

The doors opened, on the second floor as it turned out, and we all emerged onto the stairs.  And we were all laughing again partly from having had a good time and partly from the relief we had survived the lift ride, both up and down.  Walking back out into the shade of the yoni past the entrance there stood about one hundred of those three foot tall school kids in their sharp looking uniforms waiting to go up. 

MONAS. If you visit Jakarta, or if you live in Jakarta and have never been to the top, do not miss going. It is well worth the rupiah.

Jakarta (fear of the street, part 3)

trisakti2

 Trisakti Monument, Trisakti University, Jakarta

Turun ke Jalan!

This is the third part of my review of Chapter 4, The Violence of Categories, in Abidin Kusino’s book Behind the Post Colonial Architecture, urban space and political cultures.

I end where Kusno begins: the economic crisis of 1997-1998, the student demonstrations, and the fall of Soeharto. In this coming month of May the tenth anniversary of those events which took place in Jakarta will pass.

Ten years ago Jakarta was in the midst of sever economic crisis resulting from property speculation and overvaluation, systemic corruption of the banking sector, systemic corruption in the government, devaluation of the rupiah, and the weariness of 32 years of Soeharto rule. It has been said that during this economic crisis the poverty rate increased by 300%. Thousands of people were without work. Political discourse descended to the street.

Ten years ago the university students were in the streets protesting for human rights and economic justice, for what they called “reformasi”.

What crackled in the background were violent riots and the deaths of perhaps as many as fifteen hundred people.

Ten years ago Jakarta was burning.

Kusno emphasizes two violent incidences in Jakarta at this time, the first was the student protests culminating in the shooting deaths by the Indonesian army of four students from Trisakti University and second the violent riots which followed and which emerged from the street.

Kusno: “Soon after the shooting, major rioting broke out in about 50 places in metropolitan Jakarta. The main targets were Indonesians of Chinese descent. For more than 35 hours, the “underclass” of Jakarta, from which the student distanced themselves, ran amok, burning and looting places that apparently belonged to Chinese Indonesians. This took place regardless of the presence of the police and military who apparently allowed the riots to occur”.

The downfall of the regime was close at hand and because this is Java there was some mystery in this violence as well. People took advantage of the violence to settle old scores. Some have reported direct government involvement in inciting to riot. The violence was such that no one knew what was going on, who was behind it, where it was coming from, and where it was going. For a real good firsthand account of this and other events in Indonesia that were taking place during this time I highly recommend Richard Lloyd Perry’s book In the Time of Madness: Indonesia on the Edge of Chaos.

Two categories emerge out of these events, “student protestors” and “underclass rioters”.

Kusno: “These two overlapping instances immediately appeared as the unspoken frame work of events in the Indonesian media, thereby reinforcing the categories of violence that were already in place”.

Kusno’s questions are these.

“Why are two difference bodies of protest constituted in one city: the “student ” (and behind them the national media) and the “massa” (considered by the national media as “perusuh”, a term for those who “lost their self control and sense of morality” as a result of the “immediate situation” of the riot)? How are these categories produced? And more particularly, what is the relation of these categories to the ways in which the space of the city is constructed?”

Answers to those questions are discussed in part one and part two of Jakarta (streets of fear).

Perhaps those events at Trisakti are remembered most clearly while is the violence of the street has been lost to a collective amnesia, as Peter Nas suggests.

Still, after the initial protests at Trisakti University and the street riots the scene shifted to Jalan Sudirman, Semanggi, Senayan, and the Parliament Building.

This is the subject of Taking the Streets: Activism and Memory Work in Jakarta, Doreen Lee, Indonesian Studies Working Papers, No. 3, September 2007, University of Sydney.

From Lee:

“The discourse of public space in Indonesia contains both the anxieties and the hopes of the social classes affected by this idea of ‘public space’ and what it promises.

The first idea of public space takes place in the interior zone of a shopping mall, shaped by middle-class ideas of comfort and safety, an idea which operates against the fear of the hot, dusty, and dangerous streets. The second and more recent development, the revival of street politics, uses these dislocations to its advantage, as activists use the street to gain proximity to the rakyat (the People) and to disseminate their political rhetoric in a most spectacular fashion. The city is the setting for these contestations for public space by different groups, made up of multiple and heterogeneous components, which nonetheless approach the street with a shared sense of its wild possibilities. One could say that a metonymy is being established, where increasingly the conditions of the street have come to represent the city.

Sudirman, as well as the destination points of the Semanggi Cloverleaf bridge and the Parliamentary Building at Senayan, became sites of physical outbreaks of violence, with rubber bullets, teargas, water cannons, and batons deployed by the state security forces, and molotovs and rocks thrown back by student demonstrators. This paper takes up one of these addresses and the events marked by its name: Semanggi, the gathering point of the Student Movement during the mass demonstrations of 1998 and 1999. 13 November 1998: The First Semanggi Tragedy. At the gates of Atma Jaya Catholic University, a crowd of student demonstrators and ordinary people protesting the Parliamentary Special Assembly (Sidang Istimewa) were fired upon by state troops. Fifteen reported killed,6 and more than 100 demonstrators hospitalised.

The Second Semanggi Incident, 23 September 1999: protesting the ratification of a new emergency act giving the military unprecedented power, 6 people were killed. In both cases, the military denied issuing live bullets to their soldiers (van Dijk 2001: 453). By now, 8 years on, the violence of the events of Semanggi I and II have attained a finished quality. Finished but unresolved. What happened on that major thoroughfare, Semanggi?

In 1998 Indonesia felt these political reverberations; the feet of hundreds of thousands of demonstrators hitting the street in different cities throughout the archipelago. The call was ‘Turun ke Jalan!’, ‘Descend to the Streets!’. The most dramatic and well-documented of these demonstrations culminated in the violent encounters between state armed forces and student-led demonstrators in Semanggi”…

Nas and Pratiwo argue in The Streets of Jakarta: fear, trust, and amnesia in urban development. University of Leiden. Leiden, that “This concept of fear, as we have described it, has shaped the social and physical environment of Jakarta. It dominates the streets and the mental maps of the streets people construct in their heads. The old gated communities that came into existence during the colonial era and the Soeharto period have been complemented by new ones of a simpler type: the abundance of steel gates that close off the many small roads to the kampongs, such as at Jalan Gadjah Mada. These gates have recently been added to the large gated communities, such as the new towns in the periphery of Jakarta, and the condominiums of the super rich, for example Taman Anggrek. Moreover, the new architecture of malls almost without front windows, or just very thick glass blocks, can be considered a new trend which will probably lead to experiments with malls completely walled on the outside, with windows on the inside in order to receive natural light from an inner courtyard. Spanish architecture could be taken as an example for this new architecture. However, apart from the ‘architecture of fear’ and the ‘planning of trust’, the desire for amnesia is also very strong. People try to forget what happened in 1965 and 1998 and during the many other riots in between. They do not want to talk about the victims and their fate. However, their mental maps still include information on where to go and where not to go, as well as where to contact each other in case of danger. The mental maps of the streets of Jakarta are burdened by both fear and trust, but in order to continue daily street life this is balanced by a strong drive toward amnesia”.

Lee: “The uncertainty of the streets, they claim, has become a part of daily life, as Jakartans retain a mental map of escape routes. People connect with each other to obtain information via remote technologies (cell-phones, radio, and for a time, high-frequency walkie-talkies) out of a sense of flight from danger. Rumors of mass riots and theft feed these uncertainties, creating urban myths and material changes to the architecture of the city, with gates and walls demarcating ever more sharply the lines between the street and non-street spaces.

If, as Nas and Pratiwo argue in The Streets of Jakarta that “ordinary (middle class) Jakartans are compelled to talk about the 1998 riots and to point out the ruins of that violence, their mental maps are of a variety driven by rumour and distance from the event. The middle class subjects of Nas and Pratiwo’s article are devoid of encounters with the street and the productive spaces of alternative politics contained in the activist accounts of that same time period. But this disparity in understanding arises as an effect of the street itself, where rumors of crime and violence bring with them a recognition and rejection of the otherness of those who belong on the streets: namely, the mad, the destitute, and the criminal. Contra to the singularity of ‘I was there’, the repetition of the riot stories say, ‘it could have been me -because I am middle class’. Such avoidance of the street plays out in the urban development of malls, as the upwardly-mobile educated and political classes build fortresses of ‘public space’ that the rakyat cannot afford, even if they might enter to look…

…Shopping malls are ‘like prescriptive institutions such as civil service training institutes’ (Young 1999: 69), where urban sophistication is learned and practised. In Young’s observation, malls in Jakarta are being described as public parks, and serve the function of public space, drawing both the rich and the poor. Note his description of the burgeoning of luxury malls in Jakarta in the late 1990s: In the most opulent malls of central Jakarta (such as Plaza Indonesia, Plaza Menteng, Sarinah Store), or in prestige locations like Pondok Indah, Pasaraya Blok M or Citraland Mall, one can spend hours walking past a seemingly endless array of specialist boutique shops, large national and international department stores, supermarkets, banks, franchised food outlets and the like…Yet, even here, there is an admixture of teenagers in school uniform, sightseers, couples on dates in the restaurants and fast-food outlets…What is being studied most assiduously are the elements of middle-class style”.

And after ten years from “reformasi”?

Lee concludes that, “Malls create a sense-repertoire that can be replicated across the archipelago. While these ‘academies’ of class socialization enable the rakyat class of people to experience the lifestyle of the upwardly mobile, the experience of the mall itself encourages a specific uniformity. Well-dressed youth are the target audience of these malls. It is a uniformity that points to a standard experience and a standard fear; the expansion of air-conditioned sanctuaries is ‘closely connected to middle-class anxieties over the worsening street crimes in Jakarta’.

Coterminous with the development of gated communities, the malling of Jakarta provides a safe haven for the retreat of the middle class, away from the perceived dangers of the street…

…In Kusumawijaya’s words, the mall attracts the middle class by drawing them away from the street, so that the street becomes something to be experienced only from the window of a car”.

The mall may seem a digression in this discussion, but it has emerged discursively as part of measures taken by urban planners and the middle class (consumers) in reaction to the dangers of the streets. The Mall as anti-street presents new challenges to the memorializing of radical politics associated with Semanggi”.

Here again is Abeyasekere’s words. They echo down the long history of Jakarta.

“…from colonial times onwards, governments have sought to impose an inappropriate façade on Jakarta, a façade which was unable to conceal the sprawl of the city.

Is Jakarta the awful culmination of the nation’s past or does it in fact mirror Indonesia’s future? Throughout its history its rulers have certainly intended the latter, but the real city has always taken its own perversely different path, making it to some extent a microcosm of the country at large- a forum for government policies at odds with people struggling to make a life of their own.

The central fallacy which has persisted from 1619 to the present is that it is possible to create a city for the privledged few, cut off from the countryside of the majority poor”.

The evidence, of which I have very direct experience, is that this fallacy is still alive and well and thriving in Jakarta at this very moment.

Jakarta (Bung Karno)

soekarno 1948

Sukarno 1948  – Born in 1901 in Surabaya. First President of Indonesia. Architect. Genius. Womanizer. And, yes, indeed, a megalomaniac. I love him.

“Is Jakarta the awful culmination of the nation’s past or does it in fact mirror Indonesia’s future? Throughout its history its rulers have certainly intended the latter, but the real city has always taken its own perversely different path, making it to some extent a microcosm of the country at large- a forum for government policies at odds with people struggling to make a life of their own”.

Abeyasekere 1987: xvii

“Dust lies hot on streets
Clearly empty of love and pity;
It’s not like my green village
Here”.

- Ebiet Ade

“As you know, I am an architect. Besides, I have been roaming far and wide abroad… and everywhere, in every country, I’ve seen the Parliament Building is always the most prestigious… Oh, yes, I am indeed a megalomaniac…”

Cited in Leclerc 1993: 54

“Build up Djakarta as beautifully as possible; build it as spectacularly as possible, so that this city, which has become the center of the struggle of the Indonesian people, will be an inspiration and beacon to the whole of struggling mankind and to all the emerging forces. If Egypt was able to construct Cairo as its capital, Italy its Rome, France its Paris and Brazil its Brasilia, then Indonesia must also proudly present Djakarta as the portal of the country”.

Sukarno 1962 (The Transformation of Djakarta Raya)

“Projects such as the Asian Games, the National Monument, Independence Mosque, the Jakarta By-pass, and so on, are examples of “National Building” and “Character Building” …of the whole Indonesian people striving to recover out national identity. Who is not aware that every people in the world is always striving to enhance its greatness and lofty ideals? Do you remember that a great leader of a foreign country told me that monuments are an absolute necessity to develop the people’s spirit, as necessary as pants for somebody naked, pants and not a tie? Look at New York and Moscow; look at any state capital, East and West it makes no matter, and you always find the centers of nations’ greatness in the form of buildings, material buildings to be proud of”.

Cited in Leclerc 1993:52

“Man does not live by bread alone. Although Djakarta’s alleys are muddy and we lack roads, I have erected a brick-and-glass apartment building, a clover-leaf bridge, and our super highway, the Djakarta Bypass, and I renamed the streets after our heroes: Djalan Diponegoro, Djalan Thamrin, Djalan Tjokroaminoto. I consider money for material symbols well spent. I must make Indonesians proud of themselves. They have cringed too long”.

Cited in Abeyasekere 1987:210

“Comrades from Jakarta, let us build a Jakarta into the greatest city possible. Great not just from a material point of view; great, not just because of its skyscrapers; great not just because it has boulevards and beautiful streets; great not just because it has beautiful monuments; great in every respect, even in the little houses of the workers of Jakarta there must be a sense of greatness… Give Jakarta an extraordinary place in the minds of the Indonesian people, because Jakarta belongs to the people of Jakarta. Jakarta belongs to the whole Indonesian people. More than that, Jakarta is becoming the beacon of the whole of mankind. Yes, the beacon of the New Emerging Forces”.

Cited in Abeyasekere 1987:168

“Who is not proud that he is a member of a nation that is not stagnant, of a nation that is moving, moving, moving on swiftly towards a building of a great state, whole and strong, that stretches from Sabang to Merauke, a great state that moves forward fast toward a life that is noble and respected, just and prosperous, that is a beacon to others, that had no exploitation de l’homme par l’homme, and that is rapidly becoming one of the champions of the new emerging forces, a nation that is moving to realize socialism based on its own identity?”

Cited in Feith and Castles 1970:118-19

“What we ask is just a dike
No monuments or football stadiums
Or coloured fountains
Send us lime and cement”.

-Taufiq Ismail

Cited in Teeuw 1967:254

Notes:

Abeyasekere, S. 1987. Jakarta: A History. Singapore. Oxford University Press.

A is for Abeyasekere. Susan Abeyasekere, Jakarta’s historian. If you have anything to say about Jakarta at all you start with her. Her book is perhaps cited more than any other text in journal articles, books, and Jakarta Urban Blog.

Kusno, A. 2000. Behind the Post Colonial: Architecture, urban space and political cultures in Indonesia. Routeledge.

I am currently reading Kusno’s most interesting book. Most of the Sukarno quotes are cited there.

Kusno

Leclerc, J. 1993. ‘Mirrors and the Lighthouse: A Search for Meaning in the Monuments and Great Works of Sukarno’s Jakarta, 1960-1966′ in Nas, P. (ed.) Urban Symbolism, Leiden: E.J. Brill.

Teeuw, A. 1967. Modern Indonesian Literature. The Hague: Nijhoff.

Off to Jakarta (or not)

I am certainly going to bring pants and not a tie. I would look somewhat foolish walking down Jalan Thamrin with just a tie and no pants. But either way I can’t go alone…

My wife tells me that if I go to Jakarta by myself then I can’t go. No way!!!! (emphasis not mine). It appears I need a minder, mind you. In the old Soviet days you couldn’t go anywhere without your local Intourist Guide (= KGB agent). I am sure their methods have improved and the spying is all remote and electronic now. But I digress. The issue is not that I would be out to steal any of Indonesia’s state secrets it’s more that something unpleasant might happen to me while strolling down Jalan Thamrin. Should that occur it would be a family scandal of high magnitude, catastrophically unlucky, not mention unpleasant.

How about Jalan Jaksa? You know Jalan Jaksa?

Oh, that’s where the bule live. Cheap apartments. Kind of the “bule district”. Looks like Bali. Small street. Many café there. People know that’s where the bule live so they know all the bule there and leave them alone. They know they have money or not. Because, you know, bule miskin are there. You can go there.

Can I walk around there by myself?

You can go with Dedy or Ovet or Budi or Gari or Eky.

Why can’t I go around Jakarta by myself?

Because you’re a nice person and you don’t know Jakarta. You’re a virgin. You know virgin?

What!? Yes, of course…

Ya, you’re a Jakarta virgin… (laughs). You don’t know Jakarta well enough. There are bad people there that seem nice and nice people there that are really bad.

What!?

How can you tell the difference? They’ll take advantage of you because you’re a nice bule.

How do they know that? I see, I am like someone who just comes from the village for the first time to Jakarta. Is that it then?

You think you know Jakarta but you don’t. You can’t go by yourself.

Ok, well how about Jalan Thamrin? Can I go there?

Yes, if someone goes with you… (more laughs)

Can I take the train?

Nooooooooooooo way!!!!!

Look for me soon on the streets of Jakarta. You will know who I am.  The nice bule with the pants and the entourage of minders walking down Jalan Thamrin.

Jakarta (Year Beginning)

story of jakarta

The Story of Jakarta. Photo: marvelet

This post is the result of a good idea suggested over at Jakartass, where it was asked that 29 folk  join in a group writing exercise to “think out of the box” regarding Jakarta. Jakartass has set up a specific website to host all contributions as an ongoing think tank.  The social, economic, and ecological problems of Jakarta are serious. And I have not forgotten that It is one thing to be blogging about them in front of a computer and quite another if you are dealing with your flooded home in Kampung Malayu.

By way of introduction.

Ambon

I first became interested in Indonesia because of its fantastic biodiversity. I have spent many hours hiking through the highland forests of Bali, Lombok, and Java. Kebun Raya Bogor never ceases to amaze me. As it would happen I ended up marrying an Indonesian from a middle class family. Her father grew up on Saparua, is a former governor of Tidore, has a reputation as an honest man, he now works for MUI.

My wife has three brothers and three sisters, so seven children in the family. Two of the brothers are airline pilots, one a professional writer, one of her sisters works in the financial district of Jakarta, one is a small business owner, and one raises a family. None of them are originally from Jakarta. None of them particularly like Jakarta but there they are. It is the place to be.

When I visit it is inevitable that we sit in the living room, smoke kreteks, drink tea, and talk politics late through the evening. They tell me that “Indonesia is a rich nation but the people are poor”. “Why is that?” they would ask. I would half joke that Indonesia should send the Netherlands a bill for their 400 years of extractive colonial rule. They would laugh.

Visitors come and go at all hours at the home they share in the suburbs of Jakarta, just outside of Depok.

When I started Jakarta Urbanblog they said, “Why are you doing that? Jakarta is crazy”. As for Jakarta, I feared it, feared for it. It IS crazy. Never had I seen anything like it before. It was out of my experience. I learned about machet, banjir, pickpockets, beggars, cripples, banci, and mal.

One day while driving through the city, near a glass and steel highrise, I spotted a number of plastic buckets and an open manhole cover along the sidewalk. A man then slowly crawled out from the underground covered head to foot in a black sludge that must have consisted of everything Jakarta. I had to raise an eyebrow at that. We drove on.

Eventually, when I watched the news on MetroTV, I could actually understand what was being said though it was being said at an amazing high rate of speed.

The more trips I made into and out of Jakarta the more compelling the city became to me. The metaphor on one hand was that of an overloaded speeding truck, belching diesel smoke, speeding down the jalan tol with one of its front wheels about to come off, on the other hand the city woke up, tired to move, ground to halt, and on the third hand (this is Jakarta after all), a pleasant Sunday drive to Jakarta Kota, coffee and breakfast at the Batavia Café, a walk around the old town, people just living their lives.

The Problem Stated.

On August 8, 2007, for the first time, Jakartans were allowed to vote directly for their governor. The Associated Press reported, “I’m very happy; I’ve been looking forward to this day,” said Wanem, a 47-year-old homemaker, as she waited to cast her ballot. “We never had the right to choose before; someone always did it for us.” This, at least, was one positive result which emerged out of the dark days of 1997 and 1998, the krismon, and reformasi. In short, former Deputy Governor, Fauzi Bowo, a Golkar Party property tycoon, was elected the new governor.

As Deden Rukmana has reported in Indonesia’s Urban Studies it is customary that newly elected officials launch 100 day priorities. Governor Bowo’s priority program includes:

1. Mitigating traffic jams caused by the ongoing construction of busway corridors VIII, IX and X.

2. Managing and re-routing traffic.

3. Preparing Mass Rapid Transit project.

4. Improving existing city institutions and issuing related regulations.

5. Mitigating floods.

6. Giving aid to the poor in the form of scholarship, staple foods and health insurance.

7. Providing more regulations, public facilities and easier access for handicapped.

8. Revitalizing Jakarta’s slums.

9. Fighting drug abuse.

10. Intensifying communication between the governor and Jakartans.

Mr. Bowo asserted that his program “represents the society’s need, implement transparently, developing society’s participation, based on law, oriented on the vision, supervised, effective and efficient, and doing professionally”. His plan “will help create a more comfortable Jakarta for everyone”. Hmmm?

Mr. Bowo’s 100 day priorities began on October 8, 2007 and end on January 15, 2008. We’re almost, if not there, already. Time is up, where are we? Not too far I should think.

When it was suggested that an essay be written about what I would do if I were Jakarta’s governor I felt the foreboding sense of overwhelming insoluble problems. One just wants to float belly up and drift down the Ciliwung River and forget it. With certainty, if these issues, and others I will address below, are not addressed in a more robust fashion in which they have in the past it is likely that Jakarta will implode and sink beneath the Java Sea. What a dire prediction. Seeming both possible and probable yet I would hate to see it so.

Unlike Mr. Bowo I have no list of priorities because Jakarta is now a patient with multiple chronic diseases. One simply cannot tease them apart and address them one by one. The problems must be addressed simultaneously. Generally, they fall under the headings of health, education, and welfare. Take your pick. All issues are movable. The interrelated nature of the problems cannot be understated. As the great American naturalist John Muir once said, “everything is connected to everything else”.  And nothing is solved in 100 days.

Just for fun I took a poll of the Indonesian community here where I live. I asked, “If you were Jakarta’s governor what is the first thing that you would do?”. Everyone replied, “Traffic”. Mr. Bowo’s first three priorities all have to do with traffic.

So, traffic it is.  …alon alon asal klakson…

Bogor toll road

Bogor Toll Road. Photo: The Jakarta Post

A byproduct of traffic is air pollution which everyone hates and Jakarta is especially notorious for. A 2004 report from the US-Asia Environmental Partnership program of the US aid agency found that in 2003, there were only seven days when Jakarta’s air quality was in the healthy range — down from 2002, when Jakartans could breathe easy for a full 22 days.

Budi Hartanyo, professor of public health at the University of Indonesia, has stated “that traffic in Jakarta is responsible for 70% of the nitrogen oxide and particulate matter in the city’s air. Respiratory inflammation accounts for 12.6% of deaths in Jakarta, twice that in proportion to the rest of the country. Before 2001, 35% of Jakarta’s elementary school children had lead levels higher than WHO (World Health Organization) standards. This has been reduced to 3% as leaded gasoline has been phased out. However, benzene, a known carcinogen, is on the rise. “The city itself “, he declares, “is a major health hazard”.

Here is an example of some dead end thinking from  Jonathan McIntosh as reported in the Asia Sentinel of Septemebr 24, 2007:

“They’re celebrating International ‘No Car Day’ in Jakarta and you are Sutiyoso, outgoing governor of the mega-city you’ve dubbed Hijau Jakarta – Green Jakarta – more in hope than in achievement given the reality of this grey-hued, perma-smogged sprawl of 25-odd million.

Pleasingly, your municipal minions have even scrawled the legend along the road that fronts the fetid lake separating leafy Menteng from corporate Kuningan, the watercourse that so offends the noses of the well-heeled working out at the Ritz Carlton spa, where they pay up to US$400 for a haircut from someone flown in from Singapore, saving you the airfare. That’s about what the average Indonesian earns in a year.

Everyone know you’re green because you say you are, and you are an ex-general, a tough guy famous for kicking butt , so you are used to being listened to. You lead by example, so how do you mark No Car Day?

Of course, you arrive at the launch chauffeured in your official car.

No matter, you feel good anyway, you’ve shown leadership in one of the world’s most polluted cities. You give a speech decrying the fact that the “increasing use of private cars worsens air quality in the city.”

“I appreciate those who have left their cars at home and used public transport during this No Car Day,” you add. Those except Governor Sutiyoso, of course”.

commute

Commute. Photo: The Jakarta Post

Urbanization. In 2007, it was reported that more people on the planet now live in urban areas than not and that this trend will continue. Indonesia is no exception to this trend with current urbanization rates of Indonesian cities running at 20% to 30% a year.

Deden Rukmana cites a commentary piece by Wilmar Salim published by the Jakarta Post on November 3, 2007: “…the root causes of [Jakarta's problems] are centered on population pressures and environmental deterioration. …around 111,000 people move from Jakarta to its neighboring cities annually, as many as 123,000 migrants come to Jakarta every year from other places in the country… Unfortunately, many people who move from Jakarta to Bekasi, Tangerang, and Depok still need to commute to Jakarta everyday for work. Traffic jams at notorious bottleneck areas of the inner city toll road, such as at Cawang and Tomang are an everyday phenomenon… migrants from other regions are trying their luck in the big smoke.

Many are jobless, homeless, unskilled or uneducated and often end up on the streets, begging, scavenging, or working casually, and living in slums. Many probably didn’t think of the consequences of moving to a big city before coming to Jakarta, but the image of the capital city as a place of opportunity may have persuaded them to come and just try their luck”.

poor

Merdeka. Photo: The Jakarta Post

I have met many Jakartans who are there simply out of economic reasons. They seem to be the lucky ones who enjoy the benefits of making the money but they dislike the city. Their dream is to go home.

tahna abang

Tanah Abang Bridge. Photo: The Jakarta Post

Flooding. The Jakarta Post reported on January 2, 2008 that 46 of 56 subdistricts in West Jakarta had flooded. The stated reasons, “garbage and mud had not been removed from the Mookevart River leaving the river only one meter deep, far less than its normal depth of three meters” and because of “persistent lack of funds”.

The city is sinking into the swampy delta of the Ciliwung River at the same time that global climate change and sea level rise are being realized. Forty percent of Jakarta lies below sea level. But flood mitigation programs, of which there have been many, can only reduce the risks. They cannot solve the problem.

Floods will continue to be a fact of life for Jakarta into the foreseeable future and will be costly in terms of loss of economic productivity and human suffering. Those who have held power in Batavia / Jakarta have made and then remade the city in their own image. Try as much as they desired to hammer it into what they wished it or dreamed it to be other realities always seemed to barge in. And this time the reality is water.

soekarno-hatta

Urban Planning. Jakarta urban planners have produced a number of comprehensive planning documents over the decades most of which have failed due to the lack of political will or through politcal corruption.

Jakarta has outrun its master plan due to lack of infrastructure and commitment to planning principles. Indeed, as Dr. Haryo Winoso of the Department of Regional and City Planning, Institut Teknologi Bandung, has written in City for the Rich, “central planning has created uneven development through segregating spatial land use and the people into enclaves of the rich and poor”.

Here are some example of the results of weak or non-existence urban planning. More dead end thinking.

Currently only 3% of Jakarta’s 1.3 cubic meters of sewage per day is treated. The figure is rather staggering and begs the questions of where is it all going, what is it doing to the environment, and public health?

In the October – Decmber, 2004 issue of Inside Indonesia Anton Lucas in his article Jakarta’s Rubbish Nightmare: Mountain of garbage and nowhere to put it has it that “Jakarta produces as much as 6,250 tons of rubbish a day. It does not have enough trucks to collect all the rubbish, let alone enough space to put it. For 17 years the Jakarta administration has used a 108 hectare tract of land in the neighbouring municipality of Bekasi as a dump”.

The Greater Jakarta area produces 25,000 cubic meters of solid waste daily, 4,000 cubic meters from traditional markets alone. The sobering fact is that 70% of the waste is organic and that some 1,400 cubic meters end up in Jakarta Bay everyday.

This is Jakarta.

Susan Abeyasekere in Jakarta: A History states, “the central fallacy [of Jakarta] which has persisted from 1619 to the present is that it is possible to create a city for the privileged few, cut off from the countryside and the majority of the poor”.

This is the ultimate dead end thinking.

Traffic, floods, H5N1, dengue fever, inappropriate land use, rapid urban expansion, air and water pollution, corruption, crime, street brawls, kampungs, and evictions are regular features in the Jakarta news. They appear like clockwork in a regular beat.

The Problem addressed.

What would I do if I were Jakarta’s governor?

The problems must be addressed simultaneously. Generally, they fall under the headings of health, education, and welfare. Take your pick. All issues are movable. The interrelated nature of the problems cannot be understated. 

Traffic. Improved air quality can be had by requiring catalytic converters on all cars and improving fuel quality.

As governor no new cars would be allowed to be imported to Indonesia without catalytic converters and certainly none sold in Jakarta. Fuel standards for gas and diesel need be raised.

The car free day experiment on-going in Jakarta has improved air quality when there are car free days.

The Jakarta Post called it “no clue day.” Still, it’s a good idea. And the reason why it’s a good idea it that represents an new ermergent idea. The more it is practiced the better it will become. Jakartans will get used to it if it is kept in place and the events better organized.

In the short term traffic must be mitigated, managed, and mass rapid transit projects initiated and completed. First, I would immediately halt the proposed subway project. As governor I would double 14.3 km of Busway project.

I would immediately lay new elevated track adjacent to the ring toll road corridors and not simply run mass transit along the Jakarta – Bogor axis but have it circle Jakarta through Bekasi to Depok to Tangerang.

It is from these suburbs which emerge the traffic. These suburbs should be interconnected through mass transit and then economically developed so people can work near to where they live. This would further reduce the number of cars on the road system. I then would extend mass transit service to Soekarno-Hatta International.

Standard fares and services would be established for all who use the transit system. I would bring fare costs down for mass transit by increasing the toll road fees for passenger vehicles and save energy costs through reducing the number of vehicles on the road.

I would nationalize the toll road system as a matter of Indonesian national security and because it is inappropriate that a basic transportation service should be privately run for profit.

If mass transit is clean, safe, efficient, and cheap it will be used.

Urbanization. Cities are attractive because they represent a perceived and real economic opportunity. The key toward solving the traffic problem, and most of Jakarta’s other problems, in the long term, is to slow the process of urbanization. This means that the economic activity which generates the wealth of Jakarta, which in turn makes it attractive to migrants, must be decentralized. The economic wealth generated by Jakarta must not simply be reinvested into Jakarta creating a vicious cycle of development and growth.

New economic investment must be made equitably through the towns and villages of Indonesia, starting with Java, as that is the island with the largest number of urbanizing cities. If it is economically attractive to stay in your village or town then you will.

Disinvestment in Jakarta and reinvestment dispersed throughout Indonesia would be a high priority.

Floods. M. Caljoun, Peter J.M. Nas, and Pratiwo have written in an excellent report titled Flooding in Jakarta: Towards a blue city with Improved water management. In it they conclude “a completely different view of the city and its problems are required, one aimed at furnishing ample room for water. Instead of a grey or merely green city, Jakarta should also aspire to become a blue city”.

What they are implying is that water will go where it will (New Orleans for example) and over the long term it is best to let it go there and adapt to the new reality.

In the long term I would address the flooding issue through comprehensive survey and mapping of the Jakarta watershed from Puncak to the Java Sea. Simultanesouly I would survey, map, and preserve the segmented patches of remaining agricultural land that remain on Jakarta’s fringes which can provide important ecological services such as water retention, micro-climate control, green space, and conservation of visual quality.

Essentially I would make water work for Jakarta by creating a series of small dams throughout the watershed to slow the course of the water flow, divert it into manmade ponds and lakes; clean, restore, and maintain all diversionary canals; reforest stream banks and coastal mangrove forest.

The slowed and stored water could be used for a number of projects including aquaculture, provide sources of clean drinking water, and be utilized in sewage treatment.

Urban Planning. A comprehensive urban plan is what Jakarta immediately needs. As governor I would revitalize the city planning office, make it the central management office of my administration, and provide it with state of the art geographic information technologies.

I would develop a “think out of the box tank” of young urban geographers in cooperation with the University of Indonesia and initiate comprehensive planning legislation based on community driven approaches to development.

Peter Nas and Margriet Veenma, over a decade ago in 1996, in Towards Sustainable Cities: Urban Community and Environment in the Third World wrote, “Urban environmental management has to cut Gordian knot” of special interets… “not like Alexander with a stroke, but more cautiously, most probably in a step by step application of environmental plans”.

Kampungs. Giok Ling Ooi and Kai Hong Phua, in Urbanization and Slum Formation, argue that, “city governments have to first recognize and then act to establish the link that is crucial between economic development, urban growth, and housing. This is the agendum that has been largely neglected by city and national governments that have been narrowly focused on economic growth with the consequent proliferation of slum formation as a housing solution”.

Basically, slum formation is a product of having no housing solution. As governor I would embark on creating large scale low income housing unit projects. Not high rise cinder block ghettos but real communities based on the needs of the community and with access to community services.

As governor all evictions would cease unless the occupants of an area are imminently threatened with a health crisis or natural catastrophe. People would not be moved until they had a place to move to and in the interim a full spectrum of social services would be provided which would include clean drinking water, sanitation, education, and job training.

I would reinitiate a kampung restructuring policy, formerly a successful symbol of social welfare, but which now has virtually stopped to function.

In conjunction with this I would enforce a moratorium on the building of malls and require that all housing projects include affordable low income units.

Kampungs give Jakarta a particular character and should retain their own spirit of local space. It is this spirit through which a real transformation of Jakartan culture can occur.

This has always been so.

Recycling. A report from Indonesia: The Economics of Water and Waste titled Jakarta, Indonesia: The Economics of Water and Waste states that, “Jakarta has an extensive recycling system. No sooner has solid waste left the household than scavengers begin to pore through it. These are people with bags or carts who seek a living by collecting discarded items that can be recycled or reused. Also, until recently, officials considered scavengers to be urban undesirables. They collect not only items that are recycled in industrialized countries, such as paper, plastic, glass, and metals, but also discarded household durable goods, wood, bone, sawdust, boxes, and cigarette butts”.

As governor I would place a redemption tax on all plastic bags, bottles, and aluminum cans. I would make street garbage worth enough money as to not have it simply discarded.

And here’s what can be done with it. XSProject as they state on their site “buys plastic consumer waste from Jakarta’s trash pickers at well above market price, providing them with much-needed extra income. Working together with other foundations and small cottage industries, the waste is then transformed into fun-ctional accessories that make a strong environmental and social statement”.

As governor I would promote and support these small scale projects of this type. And the scavengers of Jakarta are true heros in my world. In addition there is real potential for turning the greenwaste into biodiesel, for mining the Bekasi landfill, and for letting nothing go to waste.

Greenspace. The best out of the box thinking I have seen is from the RWIEN UNIVERSE blog. These are the people I want in my governement.

In their Septemeber 24, 2007 post there is an interview with Marco Kusumawijaya, architect and greenspace advocate. “Marco Kusumawijaya’s name is often followed by a long list of professional identifiers-architect, chairman of the Jakarta Arts Council, urban planner and activist, to name a few. He has made a name for himself defending Indonesia’s urban public spaces through his books-Kota Rumah Kita (The City as Our Home, 2006) and Jakarta Metropolis Tunggang Langgang (The Scrambling Jakarta Metropolis, 2004) and by introducing the Green Map movement to Indonesia’s cities”.

Kusumawijaya states in the interview that “from a sustainable development perspective; sustainable development must be able to change humankind and the different sources of humankind’s problems… Sustainable development must be able to change patterns of consumption and production; this to me is what city residents and the government are unaware of. The issue of green open spaces is perhaps one of the smaller problems; the big problem is how to change the pattern of consumption and production. (To implement) a pattern of consumption that produces as little waste as possible, as well as a pattern of production that produces as little waste as possible, or the reusing of waste as much as possible-that’s the essence of sustainable development. …”sustainable development is not only about physical development, it is also about social and economic issues. Green open spaces fulfil the role of social-cultural space The point is sustainable development implies changes in consumption and production patterns as well as in behaviour”.

The Internet. Myrlyna Lim, has written in Cyber-Urban Activism and the Political change in Indonesia that the “the ability of Internet technology to provide spaces for interpersonal dialogue has in many countries bolstered the potential for a more democratic public realm.

The cyber-civic spaces in the built environment have further generated a renaissance in the physical landscape of cities to provide social and cultural spaces in the built environment for interaction, debate, and political-cultural continuity and development…

…for democratization, the Internet has all the features that are suited to civil society and grassroots citizen action in a manner that is less easy for a small number of people or groups to control. These features include: one-to-one communication, low/affordable cost, ease of use, broad availability, and relative technological resistence to surveillence and censorship”.

The Internet has emerged as a potent economic and politcal tool where information is moved at the speed of light. And iformation is power. As Jakarta’s governor I would promote free broadband wireless access to the Internet. Every school class room would have a computer terminal. Internet techology would be as much a mandatory course as science and math.

My guiding principles are:

Democracy. A government in which the supreme power is vested in the people and exercised by them directly.

Transparency. The ability of ordinary citizens to hold government officials accountable for their actions. It is essential to the democratic process and allows concerned citizens to see openly into the activities of their government, rather than permitting these processes to be cloaked in secrecy.

There are few immidate fixes but there are answers and in some cases the answers have long been out there in great detail and availabe for the for the taking.

So, there is hope.

A former resident of Jakarta recently said this about hope, “hope is not blind optimism. It’s not ignoring the enormity of the task ahead or the roadblocks that stand in our path. It’s not sitting on the sidelines or shirking from a fight. Hope is that thing inside us that insists, despite all the evidence to the contrary, that something better awaits us if we have the courage to reach for it, and work for it, and to fight for it… hope is the belief that our destiny will not be written for us, but by us… by those who are not content to settle for the world as it is but who have the courage to remake the world as it should be”. His name is Barack Obama.